The New York Times recently kicked off its latest sneaker story with a dramatic claim: “Never has buying, selling or stealing a pair of sneakers in Brooklyn been this complicated.” The piece details how retailers like Foot Locker are trying to outsmart thieves—limiting try-ons to one shoe at a time, displaying only the right shoe to prevent theft by mixing and matching from different locations. But for sneakerheads and retail workers alike, this isn’t breaking news. It’s just another chapter in a long-running game of cat and mouse.
I know because I lived it. Back in my acne-ridden school days, I worked in a sneaker store and wore the iconic white-and-black stripes. One school night, just before closing, a young man came in to try on a pair of Air Jordan 16s (I’m an old-head). I agreed to let him lace up both feet—a mistake I’d soon regret. “Do y’all have any pinwheels to match these?” he asked. The second I turned to point out our cap selection, he bolted out the store, disappearing through the mall doors, likely creasing the patent leather on his brand-new 16s. A few minutes later, I was sent home for failing to follow store policy. That was 15 years ago.
For those of us who love sneakers, these tactics from major retailers are nothing new, especially in cities where theft is more common. What The New York Times article overlooks, however, is the darker side of these security measures—the profiling of customers who simply want to buy a pair of shoes. If you dress “suspiciously,” walk in with a group of friends, or dare to ask for the left shoe to inspect for flaws, you might find yourself under scrutiny. Because, apparently, all thieves dress the same, men never shop in groups, and sneaker defects don’t exist.
Retailers have every right to protect their merchandise, but at what cost? The assumption that every customer is a potential thief creates a shopping experience that’s more about proving innocence than buying kicks. And that’s a problem that’s been laced into sneaker culture for far too long.
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